7th April, 2011 – BAI TU LONG BAY, VIETNAM

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Bai Tu Long Bay is to the north of Halong Bay.  It isn’t as well known as its southerly cousin, though shares similar rock formations that on our visit were grey and gloomy to match the weather.

After motoring through the bay for a few hours, the boats engines dulled to a quiet hum as we passed between two of the islands rising in irregular formations from the water.  The shallow water was a beautiful deep green and a choir of birdsong could be heard from the trees, certainly a change from the cacophony of horns in Hanoi.

On arrival at Cai Rong Island we jumped on mountain bikes and rode the 15kms to Mr Sau’s house, our stop for the night.  The ride was lovely, taking us along roads draped in the perfume of jasmine that grew wild alongside.  Children called out shy hellos as we passed and village dogs raised their heads from dozing to make sure nothing was amiss.

At dinner we all mucked in to chop up veggies and roll our own spring rolls under the close guidance of Mrs Sau.  The introduction of “happy water” (home brew rice wine) helped us wash it all down and got the conversation flowing.  It probably would have flowed late into the night, but with the generator konking out early, there was nothing to do but sleep in the pitch black that was left.

6th April, 2011 – HANOI, VIETNAM

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First on the agenda today was to get myself a hat.  With more than two months ahead in South East Asia’s hot sun it was an essential item that I hadn’t the chance to buy in my busy last weeks in Japan.  Time to stretch those long unused, out-of-practise bargaining muscles.

Hat bought – check.  Bargain had – well, I saved a few dong, but hardly a bargain.  Still, happy with my purchase, complete with phoney brand labels, Brendan and I decided to treat ourselves to a snack of deep fried doughnut type treats.  The lovely lady selling them let us pose for a few photos in her hat before well and truly ripping us off, charging us about five times the normal price.  I think it’s going to take me a few days to get back in the swing of things with the whole bargaining concept.  I’m out of practise since I left China.

At dinner, a Vietnamese man approached and asked for help with the spelling of a text he was writing.  Upon hearing he had two Australians in his midst he broke into a rendition of Dorothea McKellar’s most famous of poems, ‘My Australia”.  It was so strange to hear, “I love a sunburnt country…” in such a foreign setting, but also quite heart warming.

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5th April, 2011 – HANOI, VIETNAM

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Hanoi airport gave a quick introduction to Vietnam’s laidback approach to life…and bureaucracy.  With visa pre-approval arranged during the planning stages of this trip, I had thought, well hoped, that the airport process would be quick. The visa office was packed full of visa officials – two were napping, one playing with his new mobile phone, while another wandered in and out occasionally to chat.  Only one out of them all was actually working.  He was probably the new guy.  Eventually the group of frustrated foreigners that had been stirring helplessly for over an hour slowly began to dwindle and I was granted permission to enter Vietnam.

After settling into the hotel and taking a much needed nap, we gave Ethnic Travel a call to arrange our boat trip up to Bai Tu Long Bay.  An agent was sent to the hotel to lead us through Hanoi’s maze of streets back to their office to finalise arrangements.  Brendan and I followed hot on her high-heeled shoes as she darted up side-streets, dodged speeding scooters, and stepped confidently into the path of oncoming traffic.  We arrived unscathed, though I wandered if we would survive the return journey without a local by our side.

By the time our plans had been sorted and dinner eaten, the initially disconcerting roars and beeps of Hanoi’s traffic had seemed to settle into some sort of comprehensible rhythm, though the beats we by no means slow.

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Tuesday 26th October, 2010 – DONGWE

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I didn’t sleep in as planned this morning, so I had an early breakfast at around 7.30am before heading down to the beach for a swim.  The warm water was quite salty but very relaxing.

Later I went for a long walk along the beach.  With luxurious resorts to the left of me and local fisherman working upon the sparkling turquoise sea to the right of me, I wondered what locals made of the rich foreigners that came to laze on their beaches.

The end of my holiday has come.  I consider myself so lucky to have won a prize that has let me see such amazing places this year.

 

Monday 25th October, 2010 – DONGWE

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On my way over to the east coast for my beach side stay I made a stop off at one of Zanzibar’s numerous spice farms.  The tour was an assault on the senses with opportunities to smell, touch and taste a multitude of familiar spices in their natural setting.

I found out that citronella and lemongrass is the same thing – learn something new every day.  Explains why the mozzies haven’t been bothering me.  A number of the spices have medical uses long forgotten in the western world.  Turmeric powder mixed with honey can be used to stop bleeding.  Cinnamon root, which smells similar to menthol, is used for colds.

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After talking about Australia’s kangaroos and climate for a while with a guide at the spice farm, he asked “Vienna is the capital of Australia right?”  Argh!

Now that I’ve arrived at Breezes Resort the pampering continues.  I have a lovely upstairs suite with a large balcony.  The walk in robe is perhaps a little excessive though, considering I just have my dusty backpack with me.  A relaxing massage completed the package.

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Sunday 24th October, 2010 – STONE TOWN

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A morning walk through the winding alleys of Stone Town took me past intricately carved doors.  Indian influenced doors had curved tops, while those with influence from Oman had square shaped tops.  In the narrow streets head-scarfed women rubbed shoulders with lithe Masai visiting from main land Tanzania.  Everywhere blue and red posters showed the smiling faces of candidates in the coming election.

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Being at the heart of the slave trade, Stone Town has more than its fair share of horror stories.  I was told of slaves being tied to trees, to then be whipped.  A stoic response fetched a high sales price.  Children too sick to be sold were thrown into a well which washed out to sea.  I learnt of David Livingstone’s hand in ending the slave trade in Africa.  By telling others back in England about the conditions that existed he was able to influence movers and shakers to well, move and shake.

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Another well known name in Zanzibar’s history is Freddie Mercury of Queen fame.  A Zanzibar local, Mercury’s house of birth is now a souvenir shop, accepting either US dollars as well as Tanzanian shillings for its range of local crafts.

Saturday 23rd October, 2010 – STONE TOWN

A little panic ensued this morning when my airport transfer didn’t arrive, which was quickly solved by a pricey but speedy taxi ride that got me checked-in by the skin of my teeth.

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All of that seems a world away, now that I’m settled in to my truly luxurious room here in Zanzibar.  Usually, I stay in pretty run-of-the-mill hotels, so I feel spoilt rotten.  A hot towel and drink complete with cocktail umbrella on arrival was followed by a relaxing bath.  Lathered up with some lovely lemongrass body lotion my skin was craving, I’m now sitting on my balcony watching a great ball of red sun slip slowly toward the horizon as fishermen in their dhows drift slowly by.

The room service girl that just came in to turn down my bed reminds me of movie actress Rosie Perez.  She has been kindly teaching me a few Swahili phrases. ‘Jambo’ is hello; ‘Lala salaama’ is goodnight.

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Friday 22nd October, 2010 – ADDIS ABABA

Making a visit to Addis’ Ethnological Museum helped give some background information about the various tribes I’d so recently visited.  I spent a couple of hours wandering through the enlightening displays about tribal beliefs, crafts, instruments, children’s games and natural medicines.

My time in Ethiopia has come to an end.  Travel here wasn’t always easy but the rewards were definitely worth it.  Now, it’s time to head off to Zanzibar for a little rest and relaxation.

Thursday 21st October, 2010 – to ADDIS ABABA

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This morning we said goodbye to our drivers Hassan and Warade.  Warede had become sick and wasn’t able to drive.  With a new driver and van we set out on our last day of driving.

A foray into Abidjata-Shalla National Park for a spot of flamingo-viewing left us lost amongst the confusing dusty paths that run between the Abidjata and Shala Lakes.  We did get to see the flamingos, which were shy and kept their distance.

After arriving back in Addis Ababa our group gathered for a goodbye meal at an Ethiopian style restaurant.  I’m sure the food was great, but my stomach was misbehaving again, so I couldn’t face eating.  I could still enjoy the music and dancing that was on show.  The dancing was remarkable and unlike anything I’ve seen before.  There was a lot of shoulder shaking, head swinging and hair flinging as the dancers performed moves from various tribal groups.  My neck feels sore just remembering it.

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Wednesday 20th October, 2010 – AWASSA / WONDO GENET / LAKE LANGANO

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Awassa’s fish market was bustling in the early morning.  Small wooden boats were coming in, with people buying straight from the fishermen.  On the spot, the fish were filleted, dipped in chilli paste and eaten raw, sashimi style.  Pelicans and other water birds waited impatiently for the scraps.

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Bulk buyers could be found further up shore intensely bidding on the days catch.  Young boys with nimble fingers had been employed to skin and fillet the fish.  One boy used his teeth to great effect.

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Heading further north towards Addis Ababa, we made our last overnight stop at another lake, this time Lake Langano.  The lake is a popular spot for weekenders from Addis.  Our resort had a certain faded run-down charm about it, and the cabins were comfortable enough…once I finally got settled in one!  My first cabin was too far from the lake, so I was kindly moved to a lovely one right by the water.  While there was plenty of water right outside the door, the taps inside were dry.  The third cabin was back from the water a bit, but everything worked.